Lawn Programs
- Lawn Fertilization
- Tree and Shrub Care
- Organic Fertilization
- Flea and Tick Control
- Perimeter Pest Control
Additional Services
- Grub Control
- Lime Application
- Weed and Crabgrass
- Surface Insect Control
- Core Aeration
- Over Seeding
- Soil Testing
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The following is a compilation of common questions that people have about various aspects of lawn care. Take time reading them and raise your level of expertise or keep them handy for troubleshooting problems as they come up.
Section 1 Miscellaneous
1.1 Reading a soil test
1.2 Lawn Paint
1.3 Grass with flowers
1.4 Dealing with clay
1.5 Types of grass?
1.6 Pets and grass types
1.7 Lawn care and pets
1.8 Facelift for a new lawn
1.9 Aerating and seeding
1.10 Reseeding
1.11 Slowing lawn growth
1.12 Organic material for lawns
1.13 Greener, please
1.14 New lawn in woods
1.15 Weeds and lawn clippings
1.16 Topsoil preparation
1.17 Rust fungus on new lawn
1.18 Sodding a construction site
Section 2 Pests
2.1 Holes drilled
2.2 Moths
2.3 Can’t count the moths
2.4 When do the moths leave?
2.5 Nematode control of grubs
2.6 Little mounds
2.7 Grubs
2.8 Skunk and raccoon damage
2.9 How to treat grub eaten lawn
Section 3 Weeds
3.1 Four weeds
3.2 Smooth crabgrass
3.3 Mushrooms
3.4 Mess of a lawn
3.6 Sedgenut or nutsedge
3.7 Like crabgrass but not
3.8 Will it recover?
3.9 Bentgrass infestation
3.10 What kind of weed
3.11 More mushrooms
3.12 Unidentified
3.13 Foxtail
3.14 Buffalo grass
3.15 Extensive moss
3.16 Help with blight
3.17 Organics for dandelions
3.18 Seedy straw
3.19 Timing for pre- emergents
3.20 Easier way to sod?
3.21 Clover
3.22 Weeds on a sodded lawn
3.23 Thistles
3.24 Buttercups
3.25 Sassafras sprouts galore
3.26 Trees Sprouting
Section 4 About fertilizer
4.1 Trees and shrubs too?
4.2 Water when?
4.3 Fertilizer not enough?
4.4 Is mulch enough?
4.5 How hazardous?
4.6 Trees at construction site
4.7 Fertilizer and environment
1.1 Reading a soil test [ - top - ]
My soil test says “high in PK.” Does it need fertilizer?
No, you may add nitrogen; urea is often recommended instead of ammonium nitrate, as it will not burn the lawn. Be very careful not to over fertilize. Using only what your soil needs protects groundwater and saves money!
1.2 Lawn Paint [ - top - ]
I am trying to find any info on a lawn paint that is used when you can’t water the lawn but want it green. We live in semi-desert conditions with watering restrictions. I am sure I heard this stuff was used in California years ago.
There are some colorants used on turf during the off-season to make it look greener, such as for major sporting events. Ask your lawn care professional for information on any materials available.
1.3 Grass with flowers [ - top - ]
I have a large amount of grass in my lawn that has been flowering for more than a month. Does bluegrass flower like this, or is it an annual bluegrass? The areas seeded last year with a mix of Kentucky blue and fescue does not have this type of flowering grass in it. There’s a lot of this flowering-grass growing in lawns around town.
Kentucky bluegrass can flower at certain times of the year. Depending on the weather, seed heads may vary from year to year as far as persistence. Newer plantings may not flower as much as established plantings. Annual bluegrass will also flower at the same time of year. Often it will flower at much lower heights than Kentucky bluegrass.
1.4 Dealing with clay [ - top - ]
My house is situated in an area where red clay is very predominant. What do I need to do to get grass to grow? There is a small hillside that needs quick growth to stop erosion.
The best way to improve clay soil for lawns is to add organic matter. Compost, peat, rotted manure, and quality topsoil are all good examples. Mix them into the existing clay rather than layering them over the surface. Slopes present a problem. Seeding mats are available. Sod is another option.
1.5 Type of grass? [ - top - ]
On a small area of my lawn I have a different type of grass. It is low growing, very soft, and if you spread the blades of grass it’s brown underneath. It holds up to low water conditions, but appears to be very sensitive to granular pesticides.
Your description sounds like creeping bent grass, or possibly some other type of bent grass. Leave it, tear it out, or have it sprayed. If tearing it out or killing it, reseed the area afterwards. August would be a good time to address this.
1.6 Pets and grass types [ - top - ]
I would like to build a dog run that contains some grass for the dogs to play. Is there a grass type that would be tolerant to pet urine?
I don’t know of any grass that tolerates pet urine better than others. Grasses in the pet run will also be subject to a lot of wear and tear. One option is a Kentucky bluegrass/perennial ryegrass mixture. Another option is tall fescue. In either case, occasional overseeding will be needed to help keep a reasonably thick turf. Tall fescue would tolerate heat and drought better than Kentucky bluegrass, but will not fill in when thinned unless it’s over seeded.
1.7 Lawn care and pets [ - top - ]
What can be done about dog’s urine causing brown spots?
Add water right after the dog has been on the lawn.
1.8 Facelift for a new lawn [ - top - ]
I planted a tall fescue lawn last spring. It looked beautiful until the heat hit. Now much of it is dead. We removed several trees from the area prior to planting. The area was tilled; also the remaining stumps were ground up and hauled off. The areas of dead grass are irregular and some areas; particularly shaded ones are in good shape. How do I replant these dead areas or do I need to? How do I know what to tear up and what and replant? Is it worth seeding back into the same soil? Will I have better results with fall planting?
Tall fescue is a bunch-type grass, so it will not fill in bare or dead areas on its own. Those areas must be reseeded. Areas, which are dead, should have debris raked off and the soil surface roughened. You should be able to plant into the same soil. Prepare all the dead areas for reseeding but allow those areas that have survived to be left alone. Most likely the shade had offered protection from the heat for the grass.
Late August/early September is an ideal time for seeding lawns, as the cooler weather of fall favors development. If rainfall is lacking, however, be sure to irrigate. Also keep in mind it may take a full season or more for the tall fescue to really become established and durable.
1.9 Aerating and seeding [ - top - ]
Should you aerate and then slit seed as one process?
Slit seeding could be done right after aerating. The slit seeding process may actually speed up the degradation of the cores left on the surface as it breaks some of them apart.
1.10 Reseeding [ - top - ]
My original backyard was produced from seeding. It has been more than twelve years since the original seeding, and there are spots that appear to need re-seeding. What is the best way to do this? Would it be better to just aerate the whole backyard, then reseed? Or should the seed be put down first, then aerate?
The main concern when overseeding an existing lawn is to assure the seed comes into contact with soil. The debris must either be raked away and then the bare areas reseeded or a slit seeder used. If core aerating, aerate first and then reseed.
1.11 Slowing Lawn Growth [ - top - ]
Lately I have been hearing about a product that used to only be available to golf courses. It slows upward growth of lawns but thickens the lawn. You might cut only four times a year with this product. Can you tell me anything about it?
There are growth regulators used on turf, such as golf courses. They may be used for growth reduction, or perhaps to prevent seed head formation (such as with annual bluegrass). A problem with reducing growth of turf is typically that the grass’s ability to recover from stresses is reduced too; this is a reason to be cautious when using growth regulators.
1.12 Organic material for lawns [ - top - ]
What organic materials can I add to my lawn to better the soil? How often should it be done?
Adding organic matter is an excellent way to improve soils, especially those soils high in clay or sand. Suggested materials include organic topsoil, compost, rotted or composted manure, peat, and similar materials. If establishing a new lawn, incorporate these prior to planting. On existing lawns, top dress these materials, that is, spread a thin layer over the surface (about 1/4 inch layer). Doing this in conjunction with aerating will help get the material down into the soil. Spring and/or fall are good times to do this. Base the frequency on how much improvement is needed in the soil.
1.13 Greener, please [ - top - ]
I have Marathon Sod that was put in about eight months ago. When it was put in, the grass was a beautiful dark green color; now it’s a light green. Can you help me make it dark green again?
The grass can be fertilized to make it darker green. If you plan to water as needed all summer, a small amount of fertilizer containing slow-release nitrogen could be used now.
1.14 New lawn in woods [ - top - ]
I’m completing my new log home in Northeast Ohio. The house is situated in the woods with trees surrounding the house on all sides with the forest starting at 20-25 ft from the house. The area is very shady with all the trees. My question is: How, if at all possible, do I get a nice lawn in these conditions?
It will be difficult to achieve a high quality lawn under the conditions you have described. Refer to the chapter on managing lawns in the shade for complete details.
1.15 Weeds and lawn clippings [ - top - ]
I live in Zone 5. I have crabgrass and clover growing in my yard. I would like to know how to rid my lawn of these pests. Should I gather my clippings and not use them in my compost.
Crabgrass and clover both tend to invade lawns that have thinned for some reason and allowed the weeds to invade. Crabgrass, an annual grass, often occurs in lawns that are mowed too short, although there are other reasons the lawn may have thinned. Clover, a perennial broadleaf weed, often thrives in lawns that do not get enough fertilizer.
The first suggestion would be to follow sound lawn care practices to get the lawn growing thicker and more vigorously. Crabgrass will die off this fall. Pre emergence herbicides could be used to help prevent a repeat invasion next season. Clover, since it is a perennial, will not die out on its own. The patches can be dug out or a herbicide can be used. September would be a good time to treat them. As far as returning clippings after mowing, there is no reason not to.
1.16 Topsoil preparation [ - top - ]
I have just spread 15 yards of topsoil in my backyard for a new lawn. Is it necessary to compact it, and what works best?
You do not need to compact the soil. It is usually suggested to mix the added soil with the existing soil to help prevent any layering problems. Rake the soil to the grade desired. Waiting until a rainfall may help assure the soil has Settled before seeding.
1.17 Rust fungus on new lawn [ - top - ]
I live in Illinois. My landscaper seeded with Bluegrass and rye. 10-10-10 was applied on schedule. From March thru June the next year, we had the best-looking lawn in the neighborhood. Now, its very average and sliding downhill fast. In mid- June, the lawn started to sprout seed stalks. We started to notice rust in July. The rust has spread to the entire lawn. It has not jumped onto the neighbor’s sodded lawn, nor has it touched the few areas we placed sod. What should be done?
Grass species and cultivars within each species will vary in susceptibility to rust; which explains why most of your lawn has rust and other adjoining areas do not. It is not unusual to see rust as we advance into the heat of summer and grasses slow down in growth. Rust tends to develop most on grasses growing slower. This is why getting grasses to grow faster, such as by watering or fertilizing, can help improve the situation. I would continue to water as needed through the summer and fertilize about Labor Day. Fungicides are available for rust control, but usually not suggested on a lawn. If the problem becomes a chronic one, you may want to consider using a fungicide. If you have not already done so, you may want bring this to the attention of the landscaper. Rust is a common lawn disease of the second half of summer.
1.18 Sodding construction site with cool season grass [ - top - ]
We are about to close on a new home, the contractor will sod the front and sides and put down a seed blanket in the back using a cool season grass. Is middle of July a good time to put in sod or should we ask the builder to delay laying the sod.
Given a choice, wait until late August for cool season grasses. Sod can be installed in July for these cool season grasses, but little rooting will occur in hot weather, even though you can water to keep the sod green. Sod will root much faster as we advance into fall. Problems are less likely to occur, as there will be less stress on the new sod. With cool season grasses, definitely wait until late August to seed.
2.1 Holes drilled [ - top - ]
Last summer my lawn was attacked by some type of insect that “drilled” many perfectly round holes into the sod about ½ to 3/4 inches deep. This has caused large areas of the lawn to turn brown and die. I could not find the insect or observe the damage being done. What caused the damage and is there a way to prevent it?
I suspect the holes you saw were from birds feeding on some type of insect. Birds will make holes in the turf such as you describe when seeking sod webworms. Sod webworms are difficult to find (by us). The insect could cause areas of the lawn to turn brown. The insect could be something else, depending on what part of the country you live in. Watch the lawn carefully and examine areas starting to show problems
for the presence of insects.
2.2 Moths [ - top - ]
I have small white moths that flutter just above my grass. Do these moths indicate grubs? Or do they lay any eggs that produce grubs?
Small white moths are most likely sod webworm adults. Eggs are dropped onto the lawn and hatch into caterpillars. These caterpillars feed by chewing grass blades off just above the soil surface. Seeing a few moths does not mean you will have damage that requires control. Many lawns have a few sod webworms and damage is never noticed. However, large numbers of moths flying over the lawn about dusk may indicate future damage by feeding webworm larva (caterpillars). About two weeks or so after seeing a heavy flight, watch for browning areas of stubble. This is likely to be feeding damage. Lots of birds may be attracted to these areas. Damaged areas can be treated with an insecticide.
2.3 Can’t count the moths [ - top - ]
When mowing my lawn, a million moths come up while mowing during the middle of the day. I know that it means that I have some sort of insect problem. How can I get rid of whatever the insect is?
Lots of small, buff-colored moths flying up while mowing are sod webworms. The adult moths do not damage grass, but they do lay eggs that hatch into caterpillars. Sod webworm caterpillars chew off grass blades close to the soil surface, leaving brown stubble as damage. Expect damage about 10 to 14 days after a heavy moth flight. You may see the adult
moths but never see damage if populations of caterpillars are low and the grass is vigorous. For control when damage is evident, conventional insecticides can be used. As an alternative, Steinernema carpocapsae nematodes can be used (see question below).
2.4 When do the moths leave? [ - top - ]
How long for the moths to disappear after an application?
The insecticide does not kill the adult moths. Sod webworm control using insecticides kills the larva, or caterpillars, feeding on the grass. The adult moths do not feed. One application should be sufficient to control the larva. Also keep in mind that adult moths are often visible flying over a lawn but damage never occurs because the larva population may be quite low. Feeding damage will appear as areas of brown stubble, as the larva consume the leaves of the grass plant. It usually takes a population of one to two larva per square foot to cause noticeable damage. The larvas are difficult to find, as they will hide in thatch and debris along the soil surface.
2.5 Nematode control of grubs [ - top - ]
What do you think about the use of nematodes for grub control instead of insecticides?
Heterorhabditis bacteriophora nematode is an example of an alternative product for white grub control that is available. Research trials have shown acceptable control of white grubs with this product. This is a living organism, so needs to be handled carefully to assure viability. For example, it can’t be applied in full sun in the heat of the day. It should be applied later in the day to apply to the lawn and then watered in.
2.6 Little mounds [ - top - ]
For the last month there have been small mounds in the lawn about 1/2 inch in height and one inch in diameter. I don’t think they’re worms. I have not seen anything but locus shells here and there. Do locus cause this kind of mounds and what do locus feed on?
Cicadas, sometimes called locusts, can make small mounds. The nymphs will emerge from the soil, making a mud tube, sometimes called a chimney. The cicada climbs up on a tree trunk and emerges from its skin as an adult. Cicada nymphs feed on tree roots well below ground. No control is feasible, but they do not harm the tree.
2.7 Grubs [ - top - ]
This morning I found about a quarter of my backyard in clumps (it looked like a football game was played on it). Looking under the clumps I could clearly see white grubs. What should I do now? Can an insecticide be applied now to control the grubs? And should I reseed the lawn now or wait until spring? And did animals digging for the grubs cause the turf damage? Any help that you can provide would be appreciated.
The damage was most likely from skunks or raccoons feeding on the grubs. It is hard to say if treatment now is justified or not, as the grubs are getting larger (hard to control) and also will go deeper as the soil cools. If treating now, a fast acting insecticide should be used since it is so late in the season. The damaged areas could be over seeded now.
2.8 Skunk and raccoon damage [ - top - ]
My lawn is infested with white grubs. I have lots of useful information about controlling them in the future, but my immediate problem is damage due to skunk and/or raccoons. They are tearing up the turf!
If the grubs are still feeding in the root zone of your lawn a quick-acting insecticide should be applied. Even if the grubs are killed quickly, the raccoons and skunks may keep coming for a period of time. Perhaps try lighting the area for a few nights or keep a radio playing to discourage the animals.
2.9 How to treat a grub eaten lawn [ - top - ]
I’ve had my brown grub eaten patches treated with a grub control product. Now, what should I do about the brown lawn? Will it come back on its own? If not, do I have to pull out all the old grass before putting down new seed?
How much of the area grows back depends on the extent of damage done to the roots. Usually some reseeding or sodding is suggested when damage is extensive. I’d rake away the excess debris before putting down the seed. If some of the brown grass still seems somewhat anchored, then new root growth may be produced on those areas by watering as needed for a few weeks.
3.1 Four weeds [ - top - ]
I’m having a great deal of trouble with wild violets, creeping charlie, clover and dandelions that invade my lawn every year. They encroach from my neighbor’s unkempt property and it is a headache to try pulling them by hand. Is there any application I can use to control these plants without killing my lawn?
There are several broadleaf herbicides that will kill broadleaf weeds without killing desirable lawn grasses. For the variety of weeds you’ve listed the best suggestion would be a three-way combination product, that is, a herbicide that actually consists of three active ingredients. Unfortunately, violets are not likely to be controlled, but the others you’ve listed should be. Early fall is a good time to treat for most broadleaf weeds.
3.2 Smooth Crabgrass [ - top - ]
I have moved into a rental home with a nice size lawn in Southern California. I have a major Crabgrass problem which I am pretty sure is “smooth crabgrass.” The stem of the grass is very twig-like and I have pulled areas of this crabgrass as large as four feet in diameter. It intertwines itself all throughout the grass stemming in every direction. What is the best method to rid this crabgrass?
It is difficult to control existing crabgrass plants. There are post emergence crabgrass herbicides, most of which work best when the plants are very small. Pre emergence crabgrass herbicides, put down on lawns before crabgrass germinates, tend to be more reliable. The best time to use these herbicides varies from region to region as does the life cycle of the weed. Once it dies off, the pre emergence herbicide can be Use d to help prevent the problem the following season. In addition, mowing higher helps considerably.
3.3 Mushrooms [ - top - ]
I have recently sodded and have been watering a lot. I have patches of mushrooms growing. Are these weeds? How do I kill and stop these from growing?
Mushrooms are feeding off of organic matter in the soil.
They tend to be more numerous after rainfall or irrigation. There is no easy way to get rid of mushrooms. Knocking them down as they appear may reduce some of the spores released. You can do this either with a stream of water or by sweeping them with a broom. There are not any fungicides available to kill mushrooms. Keep in mind the mushrooms are not feeding on the grass.
3.4 Mess of a lawn [ - top - ]
I live in Connecticut and had a new lawn sprayed on last year. This year I fertilized three times. When I fertilize I also aerate at the same time. Because this was a new construction the dirt is very hard and clay like. I think the lawn lacks topsoil. The second problem we have is that we have large patches of dirt that need grass seed. We also have smaller bald patches all over our lawn. How do we reseed this? I understand that you need to rake/loosen the soil about an inch down before seeding. How do I do this without killing the existing grass? The ground is not good soil, it is dirt.
One of the underlying problems, which should have been addressed before the lawn was established, is the compacted clay from construction. Additional topsoil and organic matter should have been incorporated into the soil before planting. Core aerating and top dressing with topsoil may gradually help improve this. Bare spots can be reseeded in late August or early September. Rake away debris and roughen the soil, then over seed.
3.6 Sedgenut or nutsedge [ - top - ]
When we moved into our home 18 years ago we had virtually no lawn. A lot of hard work was done and it became beautiful. About four years ago we began to see a “new” item in the lawn. I later came to learn that it is called sedgenut grass (or something like that) and was recently told that it is an anomaly and there is very little that can be done about it until the weather cools. The lawn can be cut today, and tomorrow, much of it is two to four inches higher. After a week, it has grown as much as eight inches in some areas. It looks absolutely horrible and makes us feel as though people think we don’t care about our lawn. What, if anything, can be done about this?
Yellow nutsedge is a perennial grass-like weed with triangular leaves and a yellow-green color. It will produce spreading rhizomes and also “nutlets” or tubers that form on the ends of the rhizomes. Yellow nutsedge tends to develop under wet conditions, but once established, will tolerate dry soils. Pull out existing plants, getting as much of the root as possible.
Herbicides are also available and should be applied to actively growing plants. Crabgrass is an annual grass that appears as patches of lighter green, coarse, rapidly growing grass. As seed heads form, they are forklike or fingerlike in appearance. Crabgrass will die off in fall and pre emergence herbicides could be used next spring to help prevent a return.
3.7 Looks like crabgrass but not [ - top - ]
I have a weed that looks kind of like crabgrass but it grows tall very quickly. What is it?
The weed you are dealing with is very likely yellow foxtail. Yellow foxtail is an annual like crabgrass, but tend to grow
much more upright and usually pulls-up easily. It will die off in the fall and can only return next season from seeds germinating in the soil. Getting your lawn to grow thicker this fall and next spring, along with possibly using a pre emergence herbicide next spring, will reduce the chances of a repeat appearance next year.
3.8 Will it recover? [ - top - ]
I planted tall fescue last spring and have watched it go from thick and luscious to dead looking in several areas. The hot weather really took a toll. There are several brown spots averaging four feet in diameter. Some spots have a hint of healthy blades in the middle, but mainly are shriveled and dead. My question is now what should I do. Shall I tear up the affected areas and start over? The rest of the lawn looks rather spindly although it is still green. The shaded areas seemed to survive really well. Also there were about 10 trees, which I took out prior to planting last spring. Does this affect things?
The brown areas could be brown patch, a disease that thrives in hot weather. In addition, tall fescue usually takes a full season or more to become a durable stand of turf. Some of the surviving grass may improve in quality over time. Assuming your soil is in decent shape, the main thing to consider would be overseeding with taller fescue.
3.9 Bentgrass infestation [ - top - ]
I have what appears to be an infestation of some type of bent grass. It started in areas near the down spouts and has now spread across the lawn, primarily in circular patches. In the summer heat it appears to die out, only to return as the temperature cools and the moisture is replenished. It doesn’t seem to be securely rooted, and can be removed like lifting a piece of carpet. The worst part is the fact that it seems to be intermingling with the bluegrass and slowly taking over the lawn. Where does this stuff come from, and how do I get rid of it? Is there any way to remove this stuff short of killing off and reseeding
the entire lawn?
It does sound like bent grass. Bentgrass likes moisture
and higher levels of fertility. At high heights of cut, it tends to be shallow rooted and pulls up easily. Bentgrass will spread via stolons. Reducing nitrogen applications and water may help reduce spread somewhat, although you still need to make sure the Kentucky bluegrass is getting enough fertilizer to stay competitive. There is no selective way to treat bent grass in a bluegrass lawn. The patches will either have to be torn out or sprayed. In either case, it will be necessary to reseed or resod. August would be a good time to address the problem as late August/early September is a good time to reseed. Bentgrass can get started in a lawn through a variety of ways. It may have been in the original seed mix as a contaminant, for example, and then gradually got established and became more visible in the lawn. Perhaps the seed or stolons got carried onto your lawn in some way.
3.10 What kind of weed I don’t know what kind of weed I have. [ - top - ]
It has a thick stem and a broad leaf and it is a VERY bright light green, many many shades lighter that the Kentucky Blue that is left in the yard. The shaded parts of the yard seem to have less of this weed. Any ideas? What should I do to my lawn?
It sounds more like crabgrass than tall fescue. For now, either hand-pull or leave it. In a month of so, it will start dying off. It will have to reseed itself to be a problem next season. Any thin areas should be over seeded early this fall. Fertilize the lawn this fall. Next spring, it should get a pre emergence crabgrass herbicide. Start mowing at about three inches high before summer starts.
3.11 More mushrooms [ - top - ]
I have a small cone-shaped fungus in my lawn, it grows about a half an inch in height and is black with tiny white balls in the center of the cone. When they ripen the balls turn black. This cone has a mushroom odor and texture and grows in small clumps of three or four cones , the problem is it kills the grass around it in a circle of five to six inches creating dead spots all over the lawn. Can you please help me identify it and tell me a remedy to fix this problem.
You have described some type of mushroom fruiting bodies. Mushrooms will be feeding off of organic matter in the soil, often originating from old stumps, roots, and buried materials. Once the food supply is exhausted, the mushrooms will disappear, but this could take some time. Are these
mushrooms in any pattern, such as a ring or an arc? If so, the problem is called fairy ring, and the visible mushrooms are the fruiting bodies of the fungus, which develops in the soil. Control of this problem is difficult. Digging out the soil where the mushrooms appear is an option, but may not be very practical. Sometimes core aeration may help the situation. Also make sure the lawn is fertilized, watered, and mowed properly. There are not any sprays available for mushrooms or fairy ring.
3.12 Unidentified [ - top - ]
I’ve moved to a new house and acquired a new weed. Please help me identify it. The lawn weed is woody on top. The plant branches like a tree, with blue-green long narrow leaves about 1/2 inch long. At the base, it grows out in a circular fashion. The plant has a long tap root (five inches). It has a sticky residue almost like a pine sap.
I am not sure what the weed is, based on the description. Depending on the numbers, hand-pulling might be the best bet. If the weed numbers are high and a broadleaf herbicide is used, it should be a 3-way combination (2,4-D, MCPP, and dicamba). The weeds can be spot-treated directly with a liquid application. The weeds should be actively growing at the time. This method should control most broadleaf weeds in turf.
3.13 Foxtail [ - top - ]
I’ve got foxtail growing in my yard. Do you have any recommendations
for me?
Foxtails are warm-season annuals and will die off soon. Right now, there are no control options other than pulling by hand. Pre emergence herbicides, like those used for crabgrass, can be applied next season to help prevent the problem. Keep the lawn as thick and competitive as possible to help keep weeds out.
3.14 Buffalo Grass [ - top - ]
Three years ago we seeded our lawn with buffalo grass. It was supposed to be low maintenance and would spread to choke out the weed. Unfortunately, the weeds (mostly broadleaf) are winning. We have been told we can’t use weed killers because it will kill the grass too. How do we get rid of the weeds?
Weeds can be a problem in buffalo grass when moisture is adequate. Buffalo grass has an advantage over weeds when conditions are very dry due to its excellent drought tolerance. However, when rains increase, the weeds have the advantage and may invade buffalo grass. Some broadleaf herbicides can be safely used and spot-treating weeds with glyphosate when the buffalo grass is dormant (late fall or early spring) could also be an option.
3.15 Extensive Moss [ - top - ]
Part of my lawn has moss growing on it. It is mostly on the thin spots where there is a lot of shade and moisture.
Moss invades weaker, thinner lawns, such as in shade, poorly drained soils, and/or low fertility soils. You need to correct these problems before the moss will disappear.
3.16 Help with blight [ - top - ]
I had a new sodded lawn put in over clay, I have recently began see small patches of brown areas of the lawn. There is one area, which was seriously burned out during the hot week we had in the last week in July and first week of August. Unfortunately I was on vacation and though I had someone watering, it was not consistent. I have one area that in all respects is gone. The area was thatched and over seeded, but I am concerned about the other areas of the lawn that are beginning to realize the same initial symptoms. I need some assistance in my course of action.
The main source of the problem is the clay under the sod. Roots tend to be limited in growth, thatch accumulates, and the grass gets stressed. Then diseases are more likely to occur. Most likely either summer patch or brown patch is the problem. As you mention, fungicides are not the complete answer to the problem. I’d suggest core aerating to try to improve the soil condition. The disease may or may not return next season. With sod over clay as mentioned above, diseases tend to be chronic problems. Brown patch primarily occurs when we get extended hot, humid weather. Summer patch tends to appear about any summer when the lawn is stressed. If areas appear dead and even with moisture do not revive when the weather is cool, you may assume they are dead and need to be reseeded.
3.17 Organics for dandelions [ - top - ]
I am interested in controlling dandelions with a organic product rather than a chemical product. If there is anything out there that may work I am interested in knowing about it.
I do not have any research-based information on organic control of dandelions. I have seen some suggestions using household chemicals in magazine articles, but do not have information on how well they work. In addition, these materials are not labeled for use as herbicides. Certainly digging them out is an option.
3.18 Seedy straw [ - top - ]
I planted a great new lawn this fall and put straw down in certain areas where I felt it was needed. I didn’t notice that the straw was loaded with seeds. The rest is history, straw now grows with our new grass. We’ve pulled some of it, but it is overwhelming. Will it die this winter? Will it go dormant and return this spring? Can it be sprayed?
Bringing in weed seeds is a drawback of straw mulch. The advantages of mulch still make it worthwhile, however. Most likely the seeds brought in are annual weeds, meaning they should die off as the weather gets colder in the fall. As the lawn gets thicker, the chances of weed invasions next season decline. Pre emergence herbicides can be used on established lawns to help prevent future weed invasions of this type. If by chance some of the weeds are perennial grasses, then either hand-pull or have them sprayed next season and then reseed.
3.19 Timing for pre emergents [ - top - ]
When is the best time to put down a pre emergent for crabgrass prevention. I have heard things like, “right before the redbuds bloom.” Well, I have no redbuds and don’t even know what they look like. Is there a better example of when to treat? I have crabapple trees. Should it coincide with their bloom?
It is difficult to compare crabgrass germination with blooming of woody plants because crabgrass germination depends closely on soil temperatures. Crabgrass will germinate as soil temperatures get near 60 degrees and stay there for several consecutive days. Because of this the timing varies greatly from region to region. In the Midwest, having the pre emergence herbicide is applied by early May. As you move south, that date would change to earlier in April.
3.20 Easier way to sod? [ - top - ]
If you lay grass on top of the weeds that are already on your lawn will it suffocate the weeds and grass that are underneath?
Most likely, the weeds will emerge through the new grass. This is especially true of perennial weed species. It is suggested to remove or kill the existing weeds before planting the lawn. The weeds must be green and growing to be killed.
3.21 Clover [ - top - ]
I have a lawn that has been in for one year. I have a clover problem that is increasing. How can I eliminate the clover?
A herbicide is the best solution to getting rid of the clover in your lawn.
3.22 Weeds on a sodded lawn [ - top - ]
I have a lawn that was laid during the summer of last year as sod. I have small amounts of dandelions and crab or quack grass. Is some sort of weed and feed the thing to use or is it better to stay away from any weed products. I am watering and
not cutting my grass until it is about three inches high. I assume regular fertilizer is OK but I am afraid that a weed and feed product will damage my lawn.
If used correctly, the weed and feed should not damage the lawn. The weeds you’ve mentioned – dandelions, crabgrass, and quack grass – each have different herbicides for control. Broadleaf herbicides will control the dandelions. Pre emergence herbicides are best for crabgrass. But do not control existing weeds. However, there are a few herbicides that will control existing crabgrass. Unfortunately, there are not any selective herbicides for the quack grass. If the weed populations are small, consider hand-pulling them. If weed problems are already severe in a sodded lawn as young as yours, it could be a sign of some other underlying problems.
3.23 Thistles [ - top - ]
I have thistles growing in one part of my lawn. I have dug them out, leaving holes that I have to fill in, but this does not stop other thistles from growing. They grow big and have stickers that really sting when you try to lift them out. Any weed killer for these pests?
Most broadleaf herbicides should control thistles.
3.24 Buttercups [ - top - ]
We have buttercups in our lawn. Will weed and feed work?
Weed and feed will not have much effect on buttercups. The weeds need to be sprayed directly.
3.25 Sassafras sprouts galore [ - top - ]
I cleared off a hillside and am trying to get a ground cover started. When I cleared it I cut down 30 small sassafras trees. Now I have sprouts everywhere. Is there anything I could use to kill it?
A single spraying will not be sufficient. It will take some time to get rid of them as they are growing off of roots in the soil. Eventually they will all be killed off.
3.26 Trees sprouting [ - top - ]
Last winter we removed all of the trees from our backyard and planted new tall fescue grass this spring. Now, in July, little tree seedlings are springing up all over. We go out and pull a half of gallon of them weekly. Is there a way to get rid of these seedlings without harming the grass? Are we going to have this problem forever?
Broadleaf herbicides can control these seedlings. Used properly, these products should not damage lawn grasses. Be aware that if the saplings are offshoots of existing trees or shrubs (connected via roots), those parent plants may be damaged. If the trees are cut down, this won’t be an issue.
4.1 Trees and shrubs too? [ - top - ]
If my lawn around my trees and shrubs is fertilized regularly, is it necessary to apply extra fertilizer for my trees and shrubs, too?
Possibly not. A good lawn fertilization program will usually provide enough nutrients for landscape plantings in the lawn as well. Monitor the vigor and color of the landscape plantings and apply extra nutrients when needed.
4.2 Water when? [ - top - ]
Should I water before or after fertilizing?
Do not water before fertilizing, as the water on the grass will tend to make the fertilizer stick to the grass blades and burn them. Spread the fertilizer and then irrigate. The water will wash the fertilizer off the grass and into the soil, where the roots can use it.
4.3 Fertilizer not enough? [ - top - ]
Certain plants are not doing well even though they are fertilized regularly. What is wrong?
Some plants require acid soil, some need alkaline soil – for example, rhododendrons and azaleas require acidic soil to thrive. Or plants might have a specific micronutrient deficiency, or the nutrient balance could be off. For accurate results, another soil test should be done requesting analysis for micronutrients.
4.4 Is mulch enough? [ - top - ]
I use mulch, compost, and lime on my garden. Is there any need to fertilize, too?
Yes. Your soil needs a good source of NPK (nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus) – either organic or synthetic. Mulch, compost, and lime enhance the plants’ ability to use these nutrients, but do not supply them.
4.5 How hazardous? [ - top - ]
Should I keep kids and pets off the fertilized area?
Probably not, after they are well watered, nutrient fertilizer granules in soil or mulch should pose no problem. The amount a child or pet could consume from the landscape is not enough to hurt them. If you use larger pellets or fertilizer stakes, be sure they are buried so children and pets won’t try to eat them. Some fertilizer salts could burn or cause skin
irritations. However, if the fertilizer is a blend that includes pesticides, it is toxic – follow your lawn care professional’s advice carefully.
4.6 Trees at a construction site [ - top - ]
Should I fertilize mature trees that are left after the construction of my house?
Do so in combination with aerating, watering, and mulching. A slow release fertilizer should be used so there’s no burn potential. Since roots probably were damaged or removed, the fertilizer quantity should be reduced.
4.7 Fertilizer and the environment [ - top - ]
Can fertilizer be harmful to the environment?
If improperly applied in high concentrations, it can kill earthworms. If too much nitrogen is applied it can stimulate too much vegetative growth at the expense of flower/fruit formation. Over fertilized lush plants are more susceptible to pests and drought. Applying too much fertilizer or at the wrong time can increase leaching into groundwater. Fertilizer increases the rate of decomposition of organic material, so it’s important to add more organic matter periodically.
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