Nonprofit donates cleats to high school
Noon Turf Care of Hudson has created the nonprofit Cleats by Noon to provide new athletic shoes and cleats to youth sports teams.
Christopher and Matthew Noon, co-owners of the 10-year-old lawn care business, said their first donation was to the Lincoln Sudbury Regional High School girls’ and boys’ lacrosse teams. Both men graduated from the school and played on sports teams there 15 years ago.
They donated 35 pairs of shoes and cleats to the teams.
“I played soccer and lacrosse growing up,” said Christopher Noon, company president. “There was a fee to play sports, but the gear — shoes and cleats can cost as much as $150 to $200.” Mr. Noon said the nonprofit plans to donate shoes and cleats to the school’s soccer teams in the fall.
Last year, Inc. magazine named Noon Turf Care No. 1,747 on its list of 5,000 fastest-growing companies. The business employs 40.
Crabgrass Equals Crabby Clients
Large crabgrass (Digitaria Ishaemum), a summer annual, is a member of the grass family. It is one of the most troublesome weeds in lawns. Crabgrass reproduces by seeds. It has a prolific tillering or branching habit. A single plant is capable of producing 150 to 700 tillers and 150,000 seeds. Crabgrass plants are very adaptive to mowing height. Plants can produce seeds at mowing heights as low as 1/2-inch. Crabgrass germination is related to soil temperature. When the soil temperature reaches 60 degrees F, crabgrass begins to germinate. However, the soil temperature must be in this range at least for a week. Seeds germinate best from early spring to late summer. Crabgrass seeds are dormant for a short period of time after they shed from plants. Crabgrass continues to grow until midsummer when days become shorter, and vegetative growth slows as plants enter their reproductive stage. Purplish seed heads form until frost kills the plants. Plants that emerge early in the season and have a long period of vegetative growth are much larger and more competitive than plants that germinate late in the season.
Control Methods
The basic principle of a crabgrass control program is to prevent reinfestation by seeds. Controlling seed production for several years will help reduce the viable seed supply. Crabgrass cannot be controlled in one growing season because of the great number of viable seeds that accumulate in the soil from years of infestation. A good weed management program in lawns is one that consists of both recommended cultural practices and the use of herbicides as appropriate for the control of any given species. Satisfactory control may require several seasons of conscientious adherence to a good control program.
Cultural Control
Establishing a dense and healthy stand of turfgrass is the best way to control crabgrass and other annual weeds, including grasses and broad-leaf weeds. The proper mowing height and frequency, fertilization and irrigation are part of the weed control program and should be practiced throughout the growing season.
- Seed in late summer for new lawns. Crabgrass and other annual grasses that germinate in late summer will be killed by frosts in October or November.
- Mow your lawn to a height of 2 to 3 inches. The taller grass shades the soil and keeps soil cool. Crabgrass seeds do not germinate under cool conditions. Adjust your cutting height as appropriate for the turfgrass species.
- Water heavily once a week and avoid frequent light irrigation.
- Avoid summer fertilization. Crabgrass benefits more from fertilizer application under high temperatures than Kentucky bluegrass and other cool season grasses.
Chemical Control
Crabgrass can be selectively controlled in turfgrass areas by judicious use of preemergence or postemergence herbicides. Timing is important for herbicide application. The best time for preemergent application of herbicides is late April or early May. Postemergent herbicides can be used when crabgrass is in the 2- to 5-leaf stage. Repeat applications may be required depending upon the treatments.
Use caution when seeding a new lawn in the spring. Only use a crabgrass preemergent control containing Siduron as it will not kill desirable grass seeds (other crabgrass preemergent controls will).
Iron-Clad Results for Turf
As New England turfgrasses emerge from winter dormancy, micronutrients such as iron become increasingly important. Iron is one of the best ways to give lawns that rich, deep, dark-green color. In fact, it’s iron that makes Kentucky Bluegerass “blue.” A spring iron application surely sets your lawn apart from others in the neighborhood!
Iron may also be used to correct soil deficiencies and is considered a viable organic alternative to synthetic nitrogen. While nitrogen helps give the turf its green color, it also pushes growth. So if your lawn is a dull yellow during the height of the growing season, it’s likely your turf could use a shot of iron.
The Importance of Soil Testing
The soil test is an important measure of the soil’s ability to supply nutrient elements needed for good plant growth. The test also tells how much lime (calcium) is needed to establish the most desirable soil pH for the plants or turfgrass to be grown. Many soil tests reveal available trace nutrients required for optimal plant or turfgrass health.
Why Test?
Soils constantly undergo change. The quantity and availability of plant nutrient elements in the soil change as a result of removal by the growing or harvested crop, leaching, erosion, or the addition of fertilizer, manure or compost. The soil test reveals the current fertility status and provides the information necessary to maintain the optimum fertility conditions for grass plants to be grown.
Many plants and certain grasses grow well over a wide range of soil pH when other growing conditions are good. Some plants, however, grow best within a narrow range of pH. The only way to determine whether the soil is acid, neutral, or alkaline (pH) is by a soil test.
Most turf grasses, flowers, ornamental shrubs, and vegetables grow best in slightly acid soils of pH 6.1 to 6.9. Some plants require an acid soil to grow best. These include rhododendron, azalea, pieris, mountain laurel, and some wild flowers. The availability of most nutrient elements is greatest at a pH near 6.5. When the pH rises above this value, trace elements such as iron, manganese, copper and zinc become less available to the plant.
Welcome New SFN Sponsor – Noon Turf Care!
mollylogan, 3/5/2012 10:28 am
Please check out our new sponsor, Noon Turf Care!
Noon Turf Care was started over 10 years ago by brothers Christopher and Matthew Noon as a way to earn money to pay for their college educations. Upon graduation, Chris and Matt saw a demand for a lawn care company that could provide customers with a true service experience beyond simply fertilizing their lawns. Immediately they began to expand Noon Turf Care to provide customers with a larger selection services.
Today, Noon Turf Care employs over forty green industry professionals from office administration to outside field technicians. Chris and Matt value education and that is why employees and lawn technicians are required to attend paid green industry classes and conventions to stay current on the latest certifications.
Noon Turf Care aims at providing exceptional lawn care services to its customers through a professional and dedicated staff and superior lawn products. The company offers services such as lawn fertilization, tree and shrub care, organic fertilization, flea and tick control, perimeter pest control and various additional services, including grub control, lime, aeration and seeding.
Noon Brothers Announce their Non-Profit Creation “Cleats by Noon”
Christopher and Matthew Noon, principal owners of Noon Turf Care in Hudson, MA are proud to announce the creation of their non-profit organization “Cleats by Noon”. A cleat by Noon is a charity organization that assists with providing youth athletes with new athletic cleats on an as needed basis. Their first donation was to The Lincoln Sudbury Regional High School Girls and Boys Lacrosse teams this March. All team members will receive a brand new pair of athletic cleats at no cost. Chris and Matt found it appropriate for L-S to be their first donation as they both went to Lincoln Sudbury and played on sports teams there over 15 years ago.
As past athletes, they are sensitive to the rising costs and fees associated to even a high School such as their own in an affluent town. They know there are plenty of players that need the donation to alleviate some of the financial burden of being a Varsity athlete. They realize they have enough things to worry about as they have academics and extracurricular activities to also worry about. They did not want to single out any players so they decided to donate to the entire team.
“This is just the beginning of donations from Cleats by Noon,” says Chris Noon. “We plan to continue to donate to local high schools and youth organizations and find a process to get their cleats into the hands of young athletes that truly need help financially so they can focus on what they love, their sports!”
After High School Christopher went on to play division 1 soccer at Seton Hall University and Matthew went on to attend Boston College and run a business through college. Today, the brothers own an internet-based lawn care company that provides fertilization and scientific maintenance to residential and commercial clients through out Massachusetts.
Time is a versatile performer:
It will tell, it flies, it marches on, it heals all wounds and it waits for no one. Ticks, Ixodes scapularis aren’t waiting around in Massachusetts’ lawns and landscapes, either. These disease-carrying parasites lurk low to the ground in the turf or on trees and shrubs awaiting a ride from unsuspecting hosts such as the family pet or our children. Massachusetts is among the states with the highest incidence of Lyme disease. It is most prevalent on Cape Cod, southeastern MA, areas north and west of Boston and along the Quabbin Reservior. There is no known vaccine to protect humans against Lyme disease, so the best defense against ticks is a good offense. That means if you’re taking the walk through the woods, or are aware your children or pets have spent any length of time along your woodland perimeter, check them thoroughly for ticks. Ticks will always seek areas of the body that are the warmest. This includes between the toes, back of the knees, groin, armpit, neck, head and along the hairline. The Massachusetts Department of Public Health suggests that insect repellents containing DEET can be effective at repelling ticks, but recommends these products not be used on infants.
HOW SHOULD I REMOVE A TICK?
Should you find a tick embedded in the skin, The University of Massachusetts Extension recommends removing it as quickly as possible. But there is a right way and a wrong way. Never jerk, crush, twist or try to burn the tick. This only encourages it to burrow deeper and it may contaminate the bite wound or cause the tick’s mouthparts to break off and remain embedded. It is NOT suggested you use a cigarette, petroleum jelly, alcohol or nail polish to get the tick to just drop off. None of these methods are effective since after ticks penetrate the skin, they secrete a type of “cement” through their saliva. Instead, the Center for Disease Control recommends using a fine set of tweezers and grab the tick as near to the skin as possible. GENTLY tug straight upward until all parts of the tick are removed. After removing the tick, gently swab the bite wound with alcohol. The site should be monitored closely for redness and inflammation. If a red-ringed “bullseye” rash develops around the site, seek medical attention immediately. This could be indicative of the onset of Lyme disease. It is recommended the tick be submitted for testing for the bacterium Borrelia Burgdorferi, which is believed to cause Lyme disease.
You can reduce the number of ticks around your home by mowing the grass a little shorter during May through September. If possible, avoid areas known to be infested with ticks and clear unnecessary brush piles. Contact your lawn care provider and inquire about their Tick Prevention Program. For more information on preventing tick bites, call the Massachusetts Division of Epidemiology and Immunization at 617.983.6800
AVOIDING FROST DAMAGE TO FINE TURF
The wimpy New England winter has left lawns exposed and uncovered. And while our cool-season turfgrasses such as Kentucky Bluegrass, perennial ryes and fescues can adequately cope with morning frosts, it is important to re-route foot and machine traffic away from the lawn. At least until the morning sun has had a chance to melt away the frost. Any traffic on frosted turf, whether wheel or foot may cause grass blades to break off at the crown. The tiny ice crystals rupture the grass plant’s cell membranes, resulting in a perfect footprint or well-demarcated wheelmark in the turf.
Spring or frost damage is nothing more than an eyesore and poses no threat to the turf. It will eventually recover and fill in as air and soil temperatures increase and the grass begins to emerge from its winter slumber. For those who value their fine turf, it’s still advised you use the driveway or sidewalk and ask the mailman to do the same!
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What are horticultural oils?
Horticultural oils are highly refined paraffin oils which have insecticidal activity. Oils kill insects in one of two ways: either via suffocation by blocking the breathing apparatus of the pest; or by disruption of cellular membranes. Two types of oil are commonly used: dormant oil and summer oil. Dormant oil is a heavier weight oil and is applied to plants during the dormant season, that is prior to bud break in spring and after leaf drop in fall. Summer oil is of lighter weight and can be applied to plants that are in active growth and in full leaf.
Why use oils?
Horticultural oils are very safe to use and pose no safety problems to the applicator nor the environment when used according to label directions. Oils have no residual effects. Insect resistance or tolerance to oils is rare since the mode of action is mechanical rather than chemical. Also, the use of dormant oils to kill eggs and other overwintering life stages of pests during late winter and early spring allows the pest control operator an extra window of opportunity for managing pest problems in the nursery or landscape.
What pests do they control?
Horticultural oils are used mostly to control sucking type pests, or soft bodied, insects including adelgids, aphids, scale insects, mealybugs, psyllids, and mites. During the growing season, control of scale insects with oil requires that oil be applied while the insects are in the vulnerable crawler stage of development.
How should oils be applied?
Horticultural oils must be mixed with water prior to application. Oils contain emulsifiers which permit the oil to be mixed with water. Oils are not compatible with some pesticides, so check the label before combining oil and pesticides.
Oils must be applied while the target organism is present. Oil has no residual effect. Thorough coverage is essential.
Dormant oils may only be used on plants in the dormant state, while summer oils may be used both during the growing season and dormant season. Always READ THE LABEL to be sure you are using the product appropriately and safely.
Apply when temperatures are between 40° F and 100° F. Do not apply just before rainfall or while leaves are wet. Damage to plant tissue usually occurs when oil does not have a chance to evaporate in a timely manner. Therefore, do not apply oil when humidity is expected to remain above 90% for a period of 36 or more hours.
Do not apply dormant oils when buds are fully open or when shoots are actively elongating.
p> Avoid applying oils to sensitive plants. Among oil sensitive plants are: beech, black walnut, maples, hickory, smoketree, azaleas, Japanese holly, redbud, spruces and Douglas fir. Always read the label for information on sensitive species.
Written by: Ron Kujawski
Revised: 10/2011
Sample Submission
UMass Extension, in cooperation with researchers at UMass Amherst, will assess specimens to determine whether they are black legged ticks (deer ticks), and if so, will determine whether or not they carry the bacterium that causes Lyme Disease. The test can detect the Lyme disease pathogen from a single tick. There is a fee of $40 per sample.
Ticks can also be analyzed for the pathogens of babesiosis and anaplasmosis for a fee of $100. These tests are not conducted separately. The test for Lyme disease must also be ordered at the same time. Thus the test for Lyme disease, babesiosis and anaplasmosis costs $140.
To submit a sample, download the submission form and follow the instructions.
Tick Sample Submission Form
Address packages to:
UMass Extension Tick Assessment
Agricultural Engineering Building, 250 Natural Resources Way
University of Massachusetts, Amherst, MA 01003
Use exact address to ensure delivery.
For specific information, contact:
Dr. Craig Hollingsworth, (413) 545-1055,
chollingsworth@umext.umass.edu
What is the turn-around time for diagnostic results?
Typically, we open tick samples on TUESDAY afternoon and begin processing the ticks that day. So far, we have always been able to send results by the end of that week. Specimens that arrive after TUESDAY are processed the following week. Keep in mind that UMass mail can require one extra day for campus distribution.
Is your tick good enough?
A number of people have called to ask if their ticks can be analyzed. The answer is almost always “YES.” We have successfully processed broken and torn, water-soaked, dried-up and alcohol-bathed ticks. A few extra days in the mailbox will not affect the results. We prefer that you do NOT encase your tick in tape, but if the deed has been done we can deal with it,. The best samples are fresh ticks that have been treated as directed on the sample submission form. If we cannot process your tick, we will refund your fee.
About the diagnostic tests
Polymerase chain reaction (PCR) testing detects the genetic material (DNA) of the Lyme disease bacteria and other pathogens. If a tick contains the specific pathogen, the test will give a positive result. If the tick does not contain the pathogen, we will receive a negative result. The test will NOT indicate whether the tick has transmitted the disease. This depends on the amount of pathogen it is carrying and how long it has fed. A negative result however should assure individual that disease transmission from a particular tick is not expected.
The Massachusetts Department of Public Health offers the following advice with regard to tick test results.
Tests performed on the ticks are not perfect and they do not test for all infections ticks may be carrying. Therefore, even with a negative result, people should still monitor themselves for the appearance of rash, fever or other unusual symptoms and immediately seek the advice of a health care provider should any symptoms occur.
If someone has been infected by a tick bite, symptoms may begin to occur even before the results of tick testing are available. People should not to wait for tick testing results before seeking medical advice should any symptoms develop.
A positive test on a tick is not an automatic indication that treatment is needed. A positive test indicates that the tick was infected but not that the tick was successful in spreading the infection to the person bitten. The longer a tick is attached to you, the greater the chance that it will spread infection. Discuss any positive test results with your health care provider.
Archive for the ‘Noon Turf Care’ tag
Winter webinar
Last week, I called up Matt Noon to ask him about a webinar invitation he sent me.
Noon, part owner of Noon Turf Care with his brother Chris in Hudson, Mass., held a webinar last fall for his customers and prospects.
One of his friends had recently bought a house, and kept calling Noon with questions about how to take care of various parts of it – the lawn, the plants, the gutters.
“That’s what our clients are like,” he says – lots of questions about the same stuff, all the time.
So, to help answer these questions, Noon put together a webinar and sent the invitation to his Outlook contacts. (That’s how I made the cut.)
The webinar went over fall maintenance tips for homeowners, and focused on their, turf, plants, outdoor power equipment and exterior maintenance.
 
At the end of the presentation, Noon took questions, and offered attendees a free tree and shrub evaluation.
He told me he didn’t get hundreds of people on the call – more like a few dozen. But it allowed him to get in front of a few dozen people at once – people who were interested in hearing his message about lawn care.
The cost to put on a webinar is minimal and the upside is good. You can download Noon’s slides here, and read more in an upcoming issue of Lawn & Landscape.
